New Route at the P-Wall

I have not named the line yet, but it traverses on bolts from Back to the Earth out to the the finish of my mega project named Hopeless (aka High Hopes).
The wall is steep and the traverse is really pumpy. Getting to the finishing moves is a real bear that is for sure and I have taken some fun whippers at the end of the route.
It feels like its 12+ or 13- for sure and I am really excited to have this quality addition to the wall.
I am currently taking ideas for route names. Keep them appropriate please.

There are some Dan Gambino photos of Brian Young and I trying the route and some other wall photos from the P-Wall.
http://www.dangpix.com/pwall%20traverse/index.html

piz : )

Albufeira Crag

New Crag in Albufeira its not big but well worth a look.
Big thanks to Nuno for showing John and i around,
This crag gets the sun all day and is very Hot so skip it mid summer
but autumn winter and spring will be great and the sea is a stone throw
away.
The access is an easy 50mtwalk from the road and the view
from the top of the routes is amazing.The Grades start at 6a
to 8b and are not for the novice climbers,but what a place.

Bishops Castle

Just southwest of Pueblo, CO one man has built his own castle. Jane and I went there to check it out. It is 40 years work of only one man and his wish to build something for everyone to enjoy. Here I am on the rickety cat walk up to his metal globe. Jane and I are nearly 50 feet up enjoying the scenery and swaying metal structure.

Jane at the base of the giant home made castle.

Jane and I some where up high in the castle.

Some of the stained glass windows from inside. The interior was left open with big rooms and beautiful stone work. An amazing place to wander around for a little while and in a beautiful forest in the San Isabel National Forest.

The only place where you can get an entire photo of the castle. The tower on the left has to climb to about a hundred feet up. There is a catwalk around most of the castle, spiraling staircases, huge rooms and it's always a bit windy here so being up high can be a bit nervous. I was sketching as I went to the top of the tower. The wind was picking up and its just a swaying spiral staircase making you dizzy as you head out of the safety of the rock and into space. What a place!

Thanks for visiting and have a great day!

piz : )

THE MIRROR

If you ever find your self in the Algarve and your up for it!
check out the Mirror,one of the best routes you will find.
There are 3 sport routes,Silent running 6b goes straight up the
middle.Small swell,sunny day and the tide was low.Why not!
60mtr abseil to a small ledge with belay point.
West facing so takes some serious beating from the sea,
Some of the bolts are rusty and the route does not see much
traffic,so climb this with Caution!!..
But well worth the risk,just ask John.
Great day,so what you waiting for???.....

Birthday

My former students outside Fulford Cave in Eagle, Colorado. They got a little muddy, tired, scared, bruised and full of new and awesome memories! Great job guys. Hope your car didn't break down on the way home.

Yeah, it snowed on my birthday. Kebler Pass outside Crested Butte.

Matt Peacock being belayed by my lovely wife Jane. We hung out in Crested Butte, climbed at Taylor with her brother Matt and watched the A-Team after a nice dinner with a crappy waiter. The picknick on the river before the rain came was pretty sweet.

The view from Crested Butte South. Jane's brother lives just down the street right next to Cement Creek and is always great about inviting us over.

The view from Cottonwood Pass (looking to the west). Jane and I took the pass to Crested Butte and played catch with the softball at the reservoir on the Taylor River. It's a beautiful drive and pretty mellow for a Colorado mountain pass.

So I turned 34 this weekend. What have I learned? Well, that I am not invincible anymore. When I was in my later teens and even through my 20's I felt invincible. I would ski fast, bike hard, climb days in a row and never feel the pain. Well that is all changing. No matter how much I train or work out or run, I still have those days where I feel like a beat up doormat.

Currently, I am feeling rough from establishing a route on Mt Evans. My back is killing me from jugging and swinging around the overhanging wall putting in bolts, cleaning and working the route. Now that it's been a week of waking up with major back pain I have realized that rest is going to be the only solution. I guess that is just the way it is for us humans. We wear out just like a pair of climbing shoes.

Enjoy the pictures of my birthday weekend. I climbed, caved and hung out with my wife and some close friends. That is what it's all about anyway.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.

Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net/ http://www.arcteryx.com/ http://camp-usa.com/ http://sterlingrope.com/ http://coloradomountainjournal.com/ http://www.wunderground.com/ http://climbing.com%20http//rockandice.com http://deadpointmag.com/ http://urbanclimbermag.com/ http://andrewburr.com/ http://ladzinski.com/

Sikati Cave

Last day climbing in Kalymnos! What to do to make it memorable? Sikati Cave!

What to say? Epic crag. Huge hole in the ground, 100m deep at the lowest point, covered in stalactites. My first trip here in 2008 I did the runout classic Lolita 7a. This time I had to step it up and onsighted the long Mort Aux Chevres 7b and also Morgan and its extension Adam, given 8a in the guidebook(!)

The first pitch (given 7c) is mostly very steep 6c-7a climbing to an admittedly hard section. It probably is 7c. Then the extension is only another 8m of climbing and you can start it fresh because there's a great bridging rest at the first anchor. I won't spoil it for you, but it's definitely worth having a try for the extension. I was happy I did.
 

Me on Morgan, still a ways to go. T-shirt carried as sweat towel.

© Mark Kochanek 2010

I was so zorched after that effort I bit the dust.

And then it was time to say farewell to Kalymnos and hello to Turkey. Thanks Kaly, see you next year!

It's a Homonym, 5.12 (new route on the P-Wall)

Just the other day I was able to open up a new mixed route at the P-Wall at Mt. Evans.
It has two bolts and climbs out a steep part of the wall on big holds until the crack eats up cams and nuts.
Take a minute to look at the photos that Dan Gambino took on the actual first free ascent.
http://www.dangpix.com/p_wall_6_10/index.html

I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon. Rob Pizem
And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net http://www.arcteryx.com http://camp-usa.com http://sterlingrope.com http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com http://www.wunderground.com http://climbing.com http://rockandice.com http://deadpointmag.com http://urbanclimbermag.com http://andrewburr.com http://ladzinski.com